QUICKVIEW: Red Stripe- +++ / $$

Everytime I hear the word "Red Stripe" all I can think of is those bizarre ads where some Jamaican guy appears after some strange scene and yells "Hooray beer!" Red Stripe seems to have no problem with this association because a large poster with said Jamaican guy graces the entrances of the dining area.

Conceived as a cheaper alternative to Mill's Tavern (with both places owned by, of all things, Job Lot), Red Stripe manages to maintain some of the upmarket air of its more expensive brother. I thought the interior struck a good balance between a casual TGI-Friday's sort of ambiance, with nicely arranged dinner settings with tablecloths. The warm sourdough bread had a very strong flavor to it and was served with super-soft whipped butter. Very nice. They also left a large carafe of water on a small tray at the table so you could pour your own. That was a nice touch I wish more restaurants would employ.

I got the crab cakes for an appetizer and was impressed. They were crispy on both sides, and filled with very large chunks of good crab meat. As far as herbs and spices go, they were pretty middle of the road. Not spicy, but not mild. I enjoyed the healthy serving of aioli, but the sprouts weren't the best companion. I would have preferred something with more substance and crunch to it to counterbalance the softness of the cake.

For entrees my partner and I got the Red Stripe burger and Croque Madame. The CroMad is a Croque Monsieur with an egg over easy on top, bathed in a strong bernaise sauce and mustard. Kind of like a very large egg benedict. The ham was fresh and tender, no complaints. The bernaise and mustard went very well together. A rich, savory, not-too-strong flavor went very well with the sweetness of the ham, and the smokey Swiss-ness of the gruyere. The burger was a bit more whelming. It was HUGE, but nothing special. It was just a standard burger. They didn't add any special herbs or spices, but they also didn't mess up. And when they say fries, they means FRIES. I have never seen a pile of french fries so big. If you watched Super Size Me and agreed with Morgan Spurlock's assessment that the super-sized fries are overdoing it, you'll puke just looking at this mountain. At least the fries are very good. They are very thin and crispy, and flavorful. I've always preferred thinner, crispier fries to large steak-style. Considering the 1/8th scale Mount Fuji of fries, the burger is well-priced. Frankly, I'd prefer fewer fries and a lower price.

For dessert we ordered a slice of chocolate espresso cheesecake and the melting heart molten chocolate cake. We were pleased with both. The cheesecake had a subtle espresso flavor that didn't overpower the rest of the cake. It was mildly sweet with a deliciously thick crust that required a satisfying amount of pressure to break through. The chocolate layer on top was good, and the whole, chocolate-dipped raspberry on top was a nice touch. It wasn't anything amazing, but most places nowadays phone in dessert, with such default options as "chocolate cake," and "brownie sundae." This wasn't groundbreaking, but it was a least a nice spin. The Lily's Melting Heart was disappointing insofar as it wasn't molten chocolate cake. The key word is molten, and that kinda' leads you to believe there will be something, I dunno', molten? But no. It was basically two pieces of heart-shaped chocolate torte. Again, it was good, and I'm glad there was some inventive spin. The raspberry sorbet was a bit on the icy side, but had overall good texture, excellent flavor, and went very well with the warm torte.

Taken as a whole, I think Red Stripe succeeds. I enjoyed my meal, my dessert, and the ambiance of the dining area. The menu has a number of items I would enjoy, and as such, it's a pretty good bet that I'll be back.

Red Stripe: +++
Price Range: $$

http://www.redstriperestaurants.com/


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465 Angell Street
Providence, RI 02906
401-437-6950


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91 Point Judith Road
Narragansett, RI 02882
401-792-3200

Hours
Monday through Saturday
Lunch 11:30AM to 3:00PM
Late Lunch 3:00PM to 5:00PM
Dinner 5:00PM to 10:00PM

Sunday
Brunch 10:00AM to 3:00PM
Late Lunch 3:00PM to 4:00PM
Dinner 4:00PM to 10:00PM

Bar open late nightly

QUICKVIEW: Trio- +++ / $$$

The Newport Restaurant Group continues their growth, onward to an eventual goal of an invasion of France, or something. I give them credit, for what it's worth, that they have managed to inject unique flavor and ambiance into each of their seven restaurants. This is in contrast to the Pinelli-Marra group, where all their restaurants have a sometimes vaguely, sometimes blatantly, similar taste and feel.

Trio's been open for a number of months and has garnered a pretty dedicated following. The summer crowds apparently turn the place into a zoo, and with a bar area that's attractive and well-appointed, it's no surprise that baby-boomers in search of a haunt fill the stools. And from what I've heard, it's almost nothing but baby-boomers and older. I guess all the young folk are too busy getting blasted at louder, darker locales up in Providence.

I really liked the interior; very modern, clean, and well-lit. While on the subject, I really appreciated how well-lit the dining area was. SO many restaurants, especially those that sport a lounge-like area, aim for that "romantic lighting" look, and by romantic they mean pitch-fucking-black. Since Trio purportedly caters heavily to an older crowd -the aforementioned baby-boomers- I guess this is good business sense, since their clientele can barely see.

This isn't to say that the dining area was just bright as the sun, far from it. It was inventively lit. Lots of small, warm light sources, directionals, and a soft glow of dining area-wide lighting gives the interior a very comfortable, dynamic feel. It combines well with the wood tones and the picture of the jester eating a giant fork of spaghetti that is in every Italian restaurant EVER. Something noteworthy, apparently aping cafes, the restaurant has free wi-fi. I guess for all those stock brokers and their smartphones.

The bread was wonderful. They brought out a small, fresh-baked loaf that was crispy on the outside, hot and chewy on the inside. Fresh-baked bread at the table is a treat I wish more restaurants would start offering. The dip for the bread was a smattering of Italian herbs in balsamic vinegar, with chili pepper oil mixed at the table. Carrabbas, sacrilege though it is since they're a chain, still has the only acceptable substitute for butter. The oil was overpowered by the balsamic vinegar and the herbs were completely lost. Dinner was very good. For an appetizer, my companion and I ordered the Trio panzarotti. It wasn't so much panzarotti as two, humongous ravioli that were breaded and deep fried. The hazelnut pasta wasn't what I was expecting. Instead of hazelnut flavored, it was ordinary pasta with breading and hazelnut bits. It was good, crispy, and well-cooked, but the hazelnut flavor was overwhelmed by the frying. The filling was delicious, sweet, and pumpkin-y, with surprisingly large chunks of lobster inside. The real kicker for this was the price. At only $12 for two, count 'em two, large panzarotti, it's a great deal.

For entrees, out came the Pappardelle Spezzatto and the Tortelloni + Lobster. The Pappardelle was good but simple. It tasted like pot-roast and noodles that mom would make. The mushroom and tomato sauce was pretty short on the tomato, had a strong, beefy flavor, and was overly salty. The noodles were cooked close to al dente, but for my larger pastas I prefer to have them cooked past al dente to a softer consistency. Can't really fault them for doing what they're supposed to do, I guess.

The Tortelloni + Lobster was excellent. The pasta was well-cooked, and the duxelle filling was rich, creamy, and oh-so-flavorful. The limoncello cream sauce was the real star of the dish. It was subtly sweet, tart, and creamy all at once. I'd be tempted to put this sauce on almost anything, including breakfast cereal. You get a decent serving of lobster meat piled onto the plate, which, as I suspect anything would, tastes excellent when covered in the cream sauce. The lobster was the slightest bit over-cooked, but that's a small complaint about an otherwise good entree. The dish is expensive at $28, but if you're looking for a treat, look no farther.

The wine list was surprising. It had a very good selection of affordable wines with a good two dozen at $30 or lower. Almost the entire list is below $60 and only five break the $100 barrier. And not a single bottle of Opus One in sight! How refreshing. The dessert menu was pretty boring. Chocolate cake, crème brûlée, and other default nice desserts are present, but nothing to really draw my attention. I didn't bother. We finished with a cappuccino and tea. The tea was "New England Blend" from New England Coffee Company. It was... adequate, at least in the sense that it did not kill us. Is it really so hard to have a good selection of tea? The cappuccino was a better story. Decent roast, and well-prepared, it was a suitable ending, if not memorable.

I was very happy with Trio and will, without doubt, go back soon and go back often. It's a little bit pricey, but fits in well with Basil's across the street and the Coast Guard House down by the sea wall. Along with the good selection of very affordable entrees, Trio is a keeper.

Trio: +++
Price range for two: $50-$90

http://www.trio-ri.com/


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15 Kingstown Rd
Narragansett, RI 02882
401-792-4333

Hours
Dinner
Sunday through Thursday 5:00pm to 9:00pm
Friday & Saturday 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Lunch
Saturday & Sunday 12:00pm to 3:00pm

REVIEW: The Coast Guard House- *** / $$$

The Coast Guard House is a tough place to review. It's got so much charm that often middling food is overshadowed by eminently friendly service, architecture, character, and sights. It's places like this that help me see why guides such as The Michelin and the Gault Milleau only review based on the food and not on other aspects, such as AAA or Frommer's.

The Coast Guard House is set in, get this, a coast guard house. A real one. It was built in 1888 as a life-saving station to go along with Narragansett's status as a resort destination. The archway known as The Towers is all that remains of this bygone era, being the last remnant of the once mighty casino which had a weird penchant for burning down. The third time it went down, they just gave up.

Arriving, situated ON the water, with cool sea breezes sending waves of salty air dancing across your cheeks, the relics of 19th century Rhode Island towering above you, and the calls of sea gulls adding an impromptu soundtrack to your entrance, the Coast Guard House impresses without even having to do anything. On busy summer nights, this impression can be ruined by the unending waves of loud people, cars, and boats. But come on a cool night in the summer, or after the tourist season has passed, and prepare to be just blown away.

Finally entering the dining area does nothing to dampen your impression (This doesn't include The Deck which is mentioned in the note). The bar area is wide and luxurious. Flat screen televisions abound for game nights, showing that the management holds no sense of self-importance. They want customers. Service has always been eager, pleasant, and artfully danced the line between chattiness and professionalism. Table dress is excellent and our waiter once even commented that our silverware wasn't "acceptable" and whisked some of it away for new.

And now for what the night is all about, the view. The view is unparalleled almost anywhere in the world. During sundown, the sky lights up with all manner of colors and shades. Sea gulls drift in the wind. Water crashes on the rocks below. And as night settles in, lights begin to twinkle and dance on the Narragansett shore, Newport becomes visible in the distance, and the periodic flash of the Jamestown lighthouse makes itself known.

Unfortunately, the food does not match the view, the location, or the atmosphere. The Coast Guard House is an example of what can happen when grand ambitions are either unfocused or backed up with a kitchen that just can't handle it. Presentations are always well done, but the quality of preparation can really suffer. One night, the diver scallops can be large and perfectly prepared, and another night be overdone and gritty. Steaks are a real crap shoot. The clam chowder comes in an incredibly impressive bowl, but lacks any chunks. There is no potato and one bowl had no clam in it. It comes across as more of a bisque. For what it is, it's very good, but I wanted clam chowder.

Difficult-to-cook fish steaks are also dodgey, depending on who's in the kitchen or how burdened the place is. Crab cakes are served with almost no aioli, apparently to be artistic. Sometimes, they're excellent, other times they're greasy and over-cooked. A real star is the stuffed lobster, which, possibly because it's so heavily pre-prepared, is always well done. A real knock against the menu is its total lack of variety. It does not venture much into continental and the heavily seafood bias leaves those who don't like seafood are limited to, pretty much, steak.

Desserts are usually good, but their star, the Black Oyster, varies in quality and preparation with the rest of the menu. Sometimes the mousse bombe in the middle of the wafer "shell" is shaped poorly and the mousse is dry. Other times, it's perfectly round with scrumptious mousse. Orange creme brulee is dee-lish. Coffee is interesting. I ordered a cappuccino and got the smallest cup-o-cheeno I've ever gotten. It was only slightly larger than your average espresso. Nothing against Euro-style, but at over six feet tall and 220 pounds, I need more caffeine than that.

Everything taken into account, there is nothing about The Coast Guard house that is bad. It's all adequate to excellent. But the wildly varying quality levels and preparation inflict a big hit on the overall experience. I certainly recommend it to anyone in the area, and for the experience, I'd even say it's worth a drive. But only if they can tighten up their kitchen, recipes, preparation, and expand the menu will The Coast Guard House match its atmosphere with its food.

NOTE: The Coast Guard House also has The Deck. The Deck is used exclusively for the summer tourist season and is open-air. It takes up the bulk of the roof and has ample first-come-first-serve seating. It's menu is cheap and is limited to traditional, Rhode Island seafood such as clam cakes and chowder. The food is good, but it's real intention is as an al fresco bar for tourists. The food is decent and cheap, but the drinks are the real money-maker for them and they cost more than in the house proper.

The Coast Guard House: ***
Price range for two: $25-$65

The Coast Guard House
40 Ocean Rd
Narragansett, RI 02882-1397
401-789-0700 (Reservations accepted)

Hours
Brunch: Sunday 10:00am to 2:00pm
Lunch: Monday through Friday 11:30am to 3:00pm
Dinner: Monday through Thursday 5:00pm-10:00pm, Friday and Saturday 5:00pm-11:00pm, Sunday 4pm-10pm

REVIEW: Basil's: ****1/2 $$$$

There is no aspect on which I can focus. No element of the food. No characteristic of the ambiance. Basil's is perfect. Every trip is a journey, and every bite a treat.

Dinner is by reservation only, although they will accept walk-ins on non-busy days. Proper attire is not specifically required, but if you don't come so equipped, you'll feel noticeably out-of-place. The dining area is beautiful. Small and cozy, with Mozart or some classical contemporary always playing in the background. Sealed away from the loud, crude bustle of Narragansett beach front, one feels nestled in a fine, Parisian eatery where people do not eat, they dine. Nothing seems fake or tacky. Only genuine decor graces the walls as though this is how the chef would decorate his own dining room for beloved gusts. My dining partner one night disliked the wallpaper, calling it dour. I think it perfectly matches the personality of the restaurant.

The service is THE BEST IN RHODE ISLAND. Steadfast and vigilant, the service maintains an omnipresent but never obtrusive eye over your table. They perfectly execute European service with words, mannerisms, and attention. They aren't crude waiters from Applebees, merely charged with delivering food. They are as versed in cuisine as the chef himself and an integral part of the restaurant. The menu is without weakness. The filet mignon, the crab almondine, the salmon. They are all perfect.

The duck a l'orange may be the best on the East Coast. The wine list is without peer in most of New England. It is the best I have ever seen. The desserts are simple in design, austere in presentation, and flawless in execution. The chocolate mousse may be the best I've had. Old, worldly people come here to escape the crass, noisy reality of the modern world. They hide here to reminisce about trips on the Mauretania, African safaris, Mercedes Torpedo roadsters, and dodging bombs during the Blitz (All actually overheard). Set to Brahms, the stories transport you. This is an old-world restaurant in a time when they are dying.

There are many restaurants which have excellent service, or cuisine, or decor in Rhode Island, but none of them bring all of those together with the vision that Basil's does it. They do it this way because they believe this to be the only way it's done. The prices indicate no pomp or arrogance, yet its food shows the hand of a master who would not be faulted for having them. Basil's is a culinary wonder.

UPDATE 6/5/2009: I eliminated half of a star. Again, as with my edit of the Emilio's Bakery review, it is not because quality went down, it's because I wrote this review years ago and have grown as a reviewer and gourmet. Five stars to me means a place that is not only perfect, but offers something unique. Basil's is perfection but the recipes are what you would expect from French and continental cuisine. I still stand by my statement that Basil's is one of the best restaurants in the southern New England.

Price range for two: $50-$100+

Basil's: ****1/2

http://www.diningquest.com/client/Basil_s_Restaurant/?id=349;

No stars - Utterly Abysmal
* - Bad
** - Edible
*** - Average
**** - Very Good
***** - Excellent

Basil's Restaurant and Lounge
22 Kingstown Rd
Narragansett, RI 02882-3340
401-789-3743 (Reservations recommended)

Hours
Tuesday through Sunday 5:30 to 10:00pm